Wednesday, 1 October 2014

PARIS SHOWROOMS| Tailoring Trend

In the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom this season there are some exciting new tailoring ideas being presented by our talented designers.

SCHIPPER/ARQUES


A true European label, Schipper/Arques is formed by Dutch Boris Schipper and Spanish Tomas Pedrosa Arques. Cut and construction form the foundation for every collection, a strong basis for bold prints.

What is this collection about?

The prints come from a collaboration we did with Spanish artist Romulo Celdran, who has a gallery in New York. They are pencil drawings and we really like his work so we collaborated on this season. The theme of this collection is opium; using opium to escape the constructions of daily life and to not be caged. Our collections are always contradictory though so we have very structured pieces and draped ones.

What would you say are your brand values?

Wearability and multi-functionality.  For example the sweatshirt in our collection can be worn with a skirt and heels and be very fashionable and classy but it can also be worn with jeans and sports shoes and be very streetwear.

For what type of woman do you design?

Someone who is in touch with who she is. Who has no issues with herself.

You are based in Madrid right? Where do you produce your collections?

Yes we are based in Madrid. We mainly produce in Spain and in Belgium and some pieces in Shanghai.

YOUJIA JIN


Part of this seasons Ones To Watch, Chinese born Youjia Jin, graduated from the London College of Fashion with an MA in womenswear. Youjia's mixture of traditional tailored shapes and a love of pleating create an elegant silhouette. 

What have you worked on for your SS15 collection?

This is my graduate collection. Inspiration has been taken from muscled and anatomy. There are small details in the garments like for example one piece is half suit and half dress. I always focus on the shape and the quality of materials. I also think about functionality. For example this cocktail dress has a big pocket in which the wearer can put a few things and she won’t have to carry a bag with her. Also I don’t like layers so I like having two pieces of clothing in one; this garment is both a jumper and a suit together. I like putting different types of pieces together.

Where do you produce your collections?

In London and Paris and I source all my fabrics from Italy. I use very high quality fabrics, which sometimes I can only find in Italy. They are all 100% cashmere, 100% silk, or 100% cotton.

How would you describe your brand?

It is of high quality and all garments contain different details in every side of them. I want the wearer to look perfect from every angle.

The work of Schipper/Arques and Youjia Jin is on display in the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom along with 20 other exciting new design talents. You can view their work until the 30th September from 10am - 7pm daily (we close at 5pm on Tuesday 30th September), 23 Rue Du Roi De Sicile 75004. 


Monday, 29 September 2014

PARIS SHOWROOMS| Drinks Reception SS15


On Saturday night, Fashion Scout held a drinks reception for press and buyers in its Paris Showroom in the heart of Marais. Well attended by members of the Fashion Industry, guests enjoyed glasses of Prosecco and chilled Vita Coco's whilst nibbling tasty Propercorn and discovering the latest design talents from around the world.

Visitors to the showroom so far include: Balmain, Bengt, Comme des Garcons, CFE, Dover Street Market, DASH Magazine, David Longshaw, Interview Magazine, Joyce, Kirsty Ward, Koon, Le Bon Marche,  LOVE Magazine, Luisa Via Roma, LVMH, Opening Ceremony, The British Fashion Council, UKFT and Voulez Vous.

On the success of the evening, Fashion Scout Director Martyn Roberts spoke; "We are so thrilled about the visitors we have had to the showroom and drinks reception this season, our designers are exceptionally talented and this is a great platform for them to be seen in Paris and make the valuable orders with buyers they need."

Thanks to our Sponsors, Propercorn, Propress and Vita Coco for a great evening!

Paris Showroom | Spotlight on Texture

In the Fashion Scout showroom, designers are playing with textures to inject spice to classic shapes - the more playful the better. 
LULU LIU



Chinese born, London based Lulu Liu is now in her fifth season. SS15's collection features weaving, slicing and tearing of fabrics to create layers and textures. 



What is this collection about?

This collection is inspired by English vintage toys and cars. A child’s toys are a very personal thing and bring back a lot of childhood memories. The colours of vintage toys are very English and transmit the culture. I also am obsessed with graphics so my prints are inspired by original and traditional writing –the woodblock type font- as opposed to computer-processed graphics. This season I have also used a lot of lines – not necessarily straight, they can be curved and so on – to shape the silhouettes. I love how the lines can be used to create a body shape and how this changes when reacting with the environment (the wind, the street).

Where do you get your fabrics and where do you produce your collections?

I get my fabrics from Korea and the UK and I produce my clothes in China and the UK. When I use silk it is 100% silk. I want to use very good quality fabrics that are soft and flexible. I want them to be very comfortable to wear.

Do you focus more on the texture of your collection or the prints.

Both. We develop the print and the shape of the collections at the same time. I give everything equal importance; shape, cut, texture, print and so on.

GYO YUNI KIMCHOE


The amazingly talented Gyo Kim and Yuni Cho are the duo that form Gyo Yuni Kimchoe, SS15 prestigious Merit Award winners. Their debut collection is an outstanding show of cut, colour selection and playful textures. 

What is the story of this collection?

The statement of this collection is anti-war. Right now there are too many conflicts and wars in the world. We use a gardener as a metaphor of army soldiers. So the gardener will kill and remove the weeds like the soldiers will kill their enemies. However, our gardener will plant, grow and protect the weeds and our soldier will protect their enemy. This is why the collection is called “Weed, Gardener, Corps”. We have given military gears a twist with gardener looks.

Is the texture of your garments an important factor for your collections?

Yes, we give more emphasis on texture, silhouette and cut rather than prints.

Who do you design for?


Someone who has a very unique personality and who cares about the world.

If you could describe your brand in 3 words which ones would you use?

Sustainability (an eco-friendly new fashion but from a different perspective; care about the world’s social issues), Quirky and Fun 


The designers collections will be on display today and tomorrow in the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom, 23 Rue Du Roi De Sicile, 75004. Opening Hours: Monday 10.00 - 19.00, Tuesday 10.00 - 17.00. 

Sunday, 28 September 2014

PARIS SHOWROOMS| Portuguese Spotlight SS15

This season in the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom, we introduce a selection of the best design talents from Portugal.

The showroom is showcasing four of the most exciting designers Portugal has to offer, all ranging in unique styles, the curation places Portugal clearly as an important country to watch on the fashion design map.

CARLA PONTES



Carla Pontes' SS15 collection is a beautiful execution of modern feminine shapes. "Leaf for Spring" is inspired by the germination process and spring blooms, interpreted into natural abstract forms. 

What is the inspiration behind this collection?

In the showroom we are showcasing two collections. One of them is called “Leaf for Spring”. It is inspired by the germination process when everything is about to bloom. It incorporates many natural elements. Some parts of the garments are united in very unusual ways to create the effect of the fabric wrapping the body in the same way that the petal wraps the flower.

What about the second collection?

The second collection we are showcasing is the SS15 collection, which is all about simplicity and the urban way of using colours. The clothes have a very straight cut and they incorporate a touch of sporty.

Where do you produce all your pieces?

It is all done in Portugal for practical reasons and to support the local industries.

DANIELA BARROS



Graduating from "EMP Oporto Fashion School in 2008, Daniela has since gained success by earning first place at "WHO's Next Blog" female collection in 2012. Daniela has a developed signature style bringing together urban and elegant elements, her pieces strike a balance between minimalism and oversized androgynous creations. For SS15 she also presents a desirably cool collection of accessories, in the form of leather backspaces and clutches. 

What have you done in your newest collection?

The idea behind this collection is to destroy the classics and to rethink about form. It is also about the clash between who we are and who we think we are. The prints are inspired by the muscular system, but are presented in a more geometric way.

How would you describe the style of your designs?

The style is quite minimal. I always think more about the shape of the pieces rather than the prints. The fabrics I normally use are silk and leather but this season I have incorporated some technological fabrics which are produced using new techniques such as ceramics and special washes to make items look waxed.

Where do you source and produce your collections?

The fabrics are usually from Portugal, Spain and Italy. All production takes place in the north of Portugal where there is a manufacturing industry.

Are accessories a new product category for you?

Yes this is the first season I have bags in my collection. It made sense to have them. They are bags which can be used for many purposes. They have quite a clean structure and they are very good quality, they have lifetime warranty.


JOAO MELO COSTA



Joao Melo Costa injects a fun element into his womenswear, his SS15 collection features selection of shredded dresses conjuring ideas of flapper girls. His collection is full of exciting elements, from layering chiffon with leaves inserted delicately in-between, to laser cut bird shapes appliqu├ęd to garments. 

Your garments have very interesting textures. What have you worked on for this collection?

I make all the materials. In this collection there are four parts. The first part has real leaves, which I collected in Portugal and they are then bonded with two layers of silk chiffon. The second part has garden net, which is bonded with cotton interlining. The third part has laser cut birds bonded with linen fabric. Finally, the forth part has different layers and colours of silk organza to create the moving, flowing sense when worn.

So what is the story behind this collection?

The concept of this collection is about planting versus planning your life. So the four parts I mentioned previously, represent a stage in these processes. The first part of the collection showcases the process of checking the ground where you want to plant to see if there are any leaves. This reflects the introspection of a person who wants to start a new life so s/he needs to check what is happening in their life at that point in time. The second part is about cleaning out these leaves on the ground to have a clear field. Likewise, the person has to clear out what is happening inside of him/her in order to have a clean start. The third part of the collection reflects keeping away the birds so they don’t destroy the planting area in the same way that people need to keep away all the disturbances when they want to start a new life. Finally, the forth part showcases the flourishing of the plants and their growth. Similarly, it reflects the start of the person’s new life. Like in all of my collections, this also has a story that needs to be followed and respected in its sequence.

Is your collection produced in Portugal?

Yes both sourcing of materials and the manufacturing process are done in Portugal.



TERESA ABRUNHOSA



Abrunhosa cuts a strong, sensuous silhouette - with bright modern street wear influences. The up and coming brand, is created for women that seek effortless elegance and empowerment. A selection of kitschy prints inspired by B-series movies underlines the SS15 collection. 

What is your brand about?

It is about femininity, a mix of prints and sensuality.

What is the theme for your SS15 collection?

This collection played on the theme of B-series, the “bad movies”. The prints created for some of the pieces come from the names of such movies. I like the idea of incorporating kitsch and tasteful pieces.

Do you tend to use specific materials?

Every season the materials used for the collections vary depending on the mood of the collection and what I want to explore. SS15 has satins, sequins, muslins and engraved leather.

All the designers collections are on display to visit in the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom; 23, Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004. The Fashion Scout Paris Showroom is open until the 30th September from 10am - 7pm daily (closing at 5pm on Tuesday 30th September). 

Friday, 26 September 2014

PARIS SHOWROOMS| The Art of Handcraft SS15

This season, Fashion Scout Paris returns to its showroom in the heart of Marais. We are celebrating the talent of 22 exciting new UK and International designers across our two floor showroom space.

SS15 sees a focus on the return to the art of handcraft and traditional process. Today we feature designers Cats Brothers, Le Photographe and Mariana Jungmann whose work all interprets this theme in their own way.

CATS BROTHERS



Cats Brothers where founded and handmade in London and are a brand heavily influenced by street culture and music. They bring a crafty twist to fun and wearable streetwear with the addition of embroideries and knitwear panels. We spoke to Lindsay, the designer behind the brand:

What inspired your SS15 collection?

This collection is inspired by the idea of dressing up, disguises and joke shops. It is very playful. I always tend to make my collections fun and playful, it’s kind of my style!

I know it is hard for a designer to pick but what are your favourite pieces from this collection?

My favourite pieces are always sweatshirts and the t-shirts. They always tend to be the staple pieces of my collections.

How do you design and develop your collections?

This is actually my first season when I develop my own prints which has been very exciting. Overall, more thought is put on texture, prints, embellishments, technique of fabric and generally whatever is happening on the fabric rather than the shape.  So far all production is kept in Hackney, London and I hope I can keep it that way. Being a knitwear designer and focusing on the good quality of knits I would love to be able to produce the knitted pieces in Scotland.

Do you like the idea of adding accessories in your collection to complement the outfits?

Yes, this season we have a few clutch bags with exciting patterns. The idea behind having the clutch bag is that it acts as an additional layer to the outfits. I love clashing patterns so someone can easily add a striking patterned bag to add excitement in the outfit.

MARIANA JUNGMANN



Brazilian designer, Mariana Jungmann has always been inspired by renaissance lace since a small child. The particular shapes of the lace help to identify it as traditionally Brazilian, used in many households as tablecloths and to decorate the home.

How do you manufacture your clothes?

I design the lace and then I send it to a community in Brazil, which produce the lace. Then this gets shipped to the UK, where I assemble the garments and it is afterwards produced in Europe.

Is ethical fashion an important aspect of your brand?

I support the lace making community in Brazil, not only financially but I also teach them some techniques that I know, which they can use when producing the lace. I also believe in slow fashion and how it can impact the world. I only use natural fibres since they are more biodegradable.

What message do you want to put forward through your brand?

I want to say to women that they can still be feminine and be strong. You don’t have to wear a suit to prove your power. Looking feminine, vulnerable and sexy doesn’t reduce your strength.

LE PHOTOGRAPHE



Le Photographe defines its style as being a fusion of modern embroidery techniques, graffism and embellishment within draped forms and structural cutting. Their pieces include intense sections of hand embroidery.

What is your brand about?

Le Photographe is about creative cutting. The designer, Chris, has been pattern making for a very long time so the techniques and the shapes used in the designs are a very important aspect of the brand. The pieces are feminine, wearable and portray beautiful embroidery.

What sort of techniques do you use in order to produce the garments?

Everything is handmade. So techniques used are hand-weaving, hand-beading and fabric manipulation. We want to bring luxurious techniques to simpler fabrics, in order to bring out the best of every fabric. Some garments in this collection have taken numerous hours to hand-make. For example, the silver duchess gown took 2200 man-hours to produce!

What is the concept behind the SS15 collection?

Nature and fresh colours are the theme of this collection. The prints are mainly inspired by magnolia flowers and they are portrayed in various different ways according to the technique used in each garment.

Cats Brothers, Mariana Jungmann and Le Photographe are on show as part of Fashion Scout’s Paris Showroom. You can view their collections at 23, Rue Du Roi De Sicile, 75004 until the 30th September 2014. Opening hours are: 10am till 7pm daily, closing at 5pm on Tuesday 30th.

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