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| Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden |
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| Illustration by Yiunam Leung |
Bach rang through the speakers as the scene
was set. Jacob Kimmie’s minimalist Baroque collection was set to paint the
clean white runway with a modernist take on the exuberant grandeur of this
classic style. The classical music overture set the pace for the restrained and
buttoned up SS12 line. There was a demure elegance in the air as the show began
with a tailored black dress. With strips of fine mesh down the sides and arms,
exposing brief glimpses of flesh that tantalised the crowd. As the show went on
more flesh was available to be consumed, but everything was with a
sophisticated buttoned up finish. Sheer materials offered playful teasing,
disguised by lady like cuts.
Sheer cream ruffles bubbled up around the
neck to create high collars and sheer blouses tucked neatly into fitted pencil
skirts. It was grown up, sensible,
yet flirted wildly with the camera. Black shift dresses with fragile net capes
hinted at the habits worn my nuns and delicate white dresses were virginal. At
times there was definite religious connotations that later made them selves
apparent with the solid jeweled crucifix that hung around one models neck. Interaction
between a new innocence and restrained sex appeal was at work
The collection was heavily monochrome with
attention paid to graphic prints. Long silky black dresses swept the floor, printed
with doves. Talking to Jacob Kimmie after the show he revealed that the birds
were chosen to symbolise light and purity. With purity in mind, it is hard not to mention the fine web
like white gown with floor length veil that lay over the models dark eyes. As
well as bridal it held references of the Catholic conformation. As she walked
down the catwalk she carried with her a birdcage, a symbol of confined
femininity. In fact the only break from the monochrome palette came when a rose
pink printed dress floated in, dragging its small train behind.
The music cut to a church organ they
seamlessly flowed into Rhianna’s ‘Run This Town’ while the models made their
exit. Running backstage I caught Jacob who was happy to talk me through this
breathtaking offering. “ Rococo and Baroque, but not as we know it.” He worked
to reform these extravagant styles with a modern, minimal edge. “That sounds
like a contradiction doesn’t it?” he joked. He wanted to pare down the style
while keeping the elegance. Of course there was a little divine inspiration in
there too. “Next season I’m thinking ‘Turner’, but that’s all I’m giving you”
he said as we finished up. Well Jacob, looking at SS12, we will be staying
tuned to see what comes next.
Text: Samantha Farr