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| Photography by Magdalena Golembiewska |
Asger Juel Larsen and T.Lipop are polar opposites when it
comes to fashion and this made for a delightfully interesting joint show. After
Asger unleashed his fearless army (that encompassed everything from 90’s street
wear to Camden Goths, leopard print, glittery creepers, horror masks, graphic
lettering, skimpy pants and even chain mail antlers), T.Lipop released a wave
of calm as his models breezed down the runway in a collection that was
effortlessly cool and reassured. The audience was calmed and refocused, as we
were encouraged to marvel at the subtlety and refinement of his craftsmanship.
T.Lipop’s first model strutted out onto the catwalk in a
striking wide brimmed hat, which became a signature piece throughout the
collection. The hats, whilst still alluding to a formal, gentlemanly style of
dressing (a key theme in T.Lipop’s designs), came with an edgy cool. This set
the tone for the entire collection: tailored ensembles were relaxed as shirts
were long and untucked, or in bold retro prints, blazers worn over bare chests
and tailored trousers worn with sandaled feet. The look was borderline hippy,
but there was no sloppiness - colours were always coordinated thoughtfully
matched, and the pitch-perfect tailoring came with a fine detailing that hinted
at tradition. The result? Men who looked effortlessly cool and confidently
masculine.
T.Lipop achieves a precise balance that reveals a maturity
and self-assuredness in his work and translates to the wearer. It is this
ability to make specific yet subtle changes that have strong impact that
reveals the designer’s fearlessness. There were some quirky, theatrical
elements that intrigued and inspired. For example, a cameral cow skin
knee-length coat that exuded cowboy coolness, with oversized shoulders. A stunning
long pale blue jacket with faint fringing at the hem hinted at Mexican smocks
and looked beautiful. Indeed, the wide brimmed hats alluded to cowboys or field
workers.
Lipop’s palette was also fairly restricted, with pales blues
to navy and hints of orange, camel, white, stone and defining black. Some
colours were mixed and some matched; outfits never became overcomplicated with
more than three colour combinations and some were just one uniform colour.
Again, this highlighted his confidence and ability. The palette along with the
relaxed feel to his clothes are the first collection that I have seen that
really evoked that warm, heady feeling of summer.
Text: Amy Lockwood