Inspired by images of refugees, Jamie Wei Huang’s AW13
collection is a lesson in structure and simplicity. As the catwalk
begins, the importance of silhouette and texture becomes apparent,
lines are clean and crisp and executed in stiff and stark fabrics
giving an almost regimented feel to the runway. Zips and buckles
feature heavily within Huang’s collection creating an awareness of
enclosure and a sense of entrapment, this too is further reinforced
by the use of masked hats which feature strongly throughout the
collection.
Models mouths are shielded as they are encased in their
hats. Silhouettes are asymmetric and square cut adding interest to an
oversized form. Although a strong feeling of masculinity is present
throughout, this is beautifully juxtaposed with more fluid lines in
trousers and pleated midi skirts, this contrast of masculine and
feminine as well as the use of both light and heavy materials make
for a stunning contemporary fusion. A minimal colour palette of dark
blue tones, white, black and red with a hint of pink and grey is used
within the collection, adding to the stark yet thoughtful mood which
Huang so effortlessly creates.
A Central St. Martins graduate, Huang has been mentored by Stella
McCartney and has had the opportunity to work under fashion greats
Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane. This has no doubt aided her
in her seemingly fluent ability to use her designs to create a
dialogue with her audience. At the heart of Huangs AW13 collection is
the sense of giving a voice and a character to modern women, she
gives us both style and substance in abundance and the results are
spectacular.
By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)
Images by Lepa Georgievska (@GeorgievskaLepa)
Images by Lepa Georgievska (@GeorgievskaLepa)